Last month (November/December 2009), I took off on an impromptu trip to Manali, at the base of the Himalayas, accompanied by a friend from Delhi. It was all quite unplanned and haphazard, but he knew enough about the place that it all fell together quite smoothly.
Statutory warning: Phone camera photos with terrible auto-white ahead.

Sage Manu's temple, after which the town was named.
The Bus Journey
We landed up in a bus stand in Delhi (I don’t know which one, but it was huge and filthy). After asking people and shuttling from platform to platform, we finally found the ticket counter (hint: it’s on the first floor of the bus stand). We bought a ticket from the Himachal Pradesh transport corporation counter. If I remember right, it cost us something like 1,500 INR. Which is a lot for an uncomfortable ‘super-luxury’ Volvo bus with no ventilation (the AC was mostly off because of the cold).
The bus was filled with couples headed to Manali for their honeymoons, and we were the only two guys with backpacks and no plan. The ride took us a forgettable 14 hours. We had had a couple of shots of whiskey before boarding, and that helped us sleep. Dinner was at a nondescript Punjabi roadside restaurant.
Next morning, we were at Kullu, and shortly, Manali. We got off, headed to a nice-looking cafe on the main road, and had coffee and excellent momos. We then walked randomly around, getting a feel for the place. Even though it wasn’t tourist season, there were a lot of couples on the main road, and quite a bit of activity, so getting rooms and transport would not be a problem.
Renting a bike
Research on the Internet had led us to believe that old Manali was the place to be, and we decided to get a motorcycle and ride there. There were a lot of touts trying to sell us rooms, we either ignored them or casually said no, and they didn’t bother us too much. We then walked into a travel agency (Special Tours India) with a board that said ‘Motorcycles for hire’, and they were helpful enough. We negotiated a battered Pulsar 150 for 400 INR per day, no fuel included. After making the deposit and riding out, I realized that it had no brakes. The front disc was pretty much down to metal-on-metal, and the rear drums were soft and unresponsive. If you plan to hire a bike, be a little more picky than we were. Apparently, Pulsars are rare, so finding one in good condition is hard. More common are ancient Yamaha RX-100s and Bullet 350s. I didn’t want the Bullet because it was overkill for our purposes, and the Yamaha was too light.
The Pulsar also had a dead battery. Luckily, headlights were working fine (although there was no horn). The front fork was bent, and both rims were wobbly. It was like riding a mule with Parkinson’s. This wasn’t too much of an issue for us since we weren’t planning on doing any touring, just using it to get around. We filled ten litres of petrol and headed towards old Manali after a brief stop at Vashisht.

The temple at Vashisht
If you’re even half a biker, consider getting a motorcycle in Manali. The roads are well-maintained, weather is pleasant (even though I only saw winter, it wasn’t all too cold), and the views, spectacular.

The road to Solang valley and Rothang pass


A local road in Manali
Old Manali
Old manali is different from the main town. Whereas the main town (mall road?) is a typical Indian tourist place, with hawkers and touts and restaurants boasting 20 cuisines in one kitchen and families walking down the road sharing two ice-cream cones between the five of them, old Manali is sedate and peaceful. It has fewer (and better) restaurants and hotels, and is much more scenic. There are more non-Indians (mostly Europeans and Israelis), and people are more approachable and less out to sell you something. All this in a distance of maybe five kilometers. We rode till the very end of the road, and finally decided to check into this place called Monal guest house.

Monal Guest House, in Manali
It had a beautiful view of the valley and the Beas river running through it, piped water, clean rooms and bathrooms, television, and was pretty cheap (INR 400 per night). There wasn’t a restaurant, but we later blundered into a very cool place called Drifers’ Inn, about two minutes by walk from Monal. There were also a couple of shops nearby selling biscuits, pepsi and chocolates, and a shack where a local made omlettes and tea.

View from our hotel room

The Beas river
We later discovered that Drifters’ Inn had rooms as well, at pretty much the same cost. It looks like a nicer place to stay, too, though the view isn’t nearly as spectacular.
The first night, we decided to get something to drink. We rode towards town, and a couple of places caught our eye, Johnson’s Pub, and Caverna Magica. The bartender at Magica was friendly enough, but the place was empty (maybe because we were there off-season). Johnson’s was much more lively, and we spent the rest of the night there, eventually getting back at 12ish. Food and drinks were, while not cheap, reasonably priced, and really good.
Solang valley
The next day, after a considerable breakfast at Drifers’ (and maybe a beer, I won’t say), we rode towards Rothang pass. It was a scenic ride of maybe 20-30 kilometers through hilly terrain. The pass was closed because of avalanches/landslides, so we just rode on. We were on our way to a place called Solang valley. The climb was beautiful, but the valley itself was a crowded tourist spot. There were guys selling quad-bike rides, hang-glider rides, horse-rides and omlettes everywhere.

This criminal sold us Maggi (Ramen) for INR 50ish
A two kilometer trek took us to a nearby Shiva temple, which was well worth it. You can also get there by horse, but the horses were in such wretched shape that I decided not to, for fear of falling off. We walked. I made my first tentative contact with snow there. It was a let-down. I expected it to be much more magical. With more rainbows and fairies and such.

Shiva temple at Solang valley
By the time we left (five or six in the evening), it was already getting dark. On our way back to Manali, we found this amazing pizzeria (advertised as using a wood-oven) where we had chicken pizza for INR 120ish (and a quart of whiskey from a wine shop next door) and relaxed a bit before heading out. The place itself was very cozy; it had wooden interiors, and reminded me of the wild-west in all the books I’ve read. I’m giving it two cool points just for that feeling.

Not just pizza, wooden-oven god-damned pizza.
The next day, we shopped a bit in the main town, had a nice lunch at Sher-e-Punjab on mall road and headed back to Delhi.
The Goats
All in all, I found Manali beautiful, provided we kept off the well-trod routes. People were friendly, climate amazing, and the place and surrounding scenery made for a very relaxing stay. If you’re a nature-lover, you can just walk any which way, and you’ll find a postcard-perfect orchard, or cliff, or river, or valley. If you like food and drink, you have enough variety to keep you busy for a long time.
I didn’t hear of any parties while I was there, but I’m guessing they happen at a different time of year, and that’s another attraction of Manali. I’m not big on it, but if you are, marijuana use is common, and not a problem, but taking it out of Manali is dangerous (cops have checkposts).
My two days there were woefully inadequate; I’m guessing you need at least a week to travel to nearby places and still have time to unwind every evening, and that’s what I’m going to do the next time I visit. Dharamshala and Ladakh are nearby, and I’d like to do a circuit through all three places, beginning and ending at Manali.
Also, the rumors are true, there are goats.

Goats. What more can I offer as explanation?
Contacts
Contact of Monal house: +91.1902-253848
Contact of Special Tours India: +91.94187-76717, info at specialtoursindia dotcom, stitours at gmail
Contact of Drifers’ Inn & Cafe: +91.99103-33127, driftersinn at gmail, driftersinn.in